POPFEST Speculative Sewing Catwalk

Our POPFest Showcase at Somerset House featured a historic clothing invention catwalk.

It featured 9 models in convertible, multiple, and combinable costumes spanning a century from 1850s to 1960s.

Each person was linked to the project in some way – as students, researchers and supporters  – so it was a wonderful collaborative celebration.

Each person showcased an inventor and her invention from the research.

Winthrop’s 1895 patent for a combination cycling, walking and hiking skirt has two aprons – one attached at the front and one on the back

The front apron can be removed, folded and turned into a satchel that can be attached to the handlebars of a bike or worn over the shoulder or tucked into the waistband.

The apron on the back can also be removed –lifted to the shoulders to create a handy cape for inclement weather.

Winthrop invention is now a pair of wide legged trousers would be appropriate for walking and hiking as well as a cycling.

And the wearer could easily return the aprons back in position when she returned to polite society.

Bankhart’s invention is a long full high waisted skirt which can be unbuttoned and lifted to the shoulders where it becomes a full cloak.

She explains her patent that it is for “tramping, hunting and in outdoor recreation”.

In this context, the convertibility of the garment conceals the wearer’s bloomers as well as her sporty intentions.

Her use of the term ‘cloak’ rather than ‘cape’ is significant.

A cloak is heavier than a cape and tends to be longer and used outside.

Cloaks are also more dramatic—to cloak something is to cover or conceal it.

Thoma’s invention starts as a narrow A line skirt ends just below the knees and it converts into a pair of breeches.

The technology is very complex – there are 35 fastening points hidden in the skirt.

The transformation starts with the pockets. Inside are concealed buttons and button holes which connect to attachments at the back of the skirt.

Some patents are about speed of conversion. THIS is not one of them

This is about a thorough and robust transformation – which worked equally well as a skirt and as breeches.

Henderson’s 1896 invention starts as a long A-line skirt that wouldn’t have looked out of place in 1890s middle class society.

The invention is sewn into the back of the skirt to convert it into a skirt for cycling and walking

There are 3 cords  – 2 are outside and 1 is inside, hidden in the seam.

All end in tassels!

 The skirt is adaptable depending on the kinds of cycling you might be doing. The two side cords lifted the sides of the skirt to ride a step-through ladies’ frame bike.

Or you could pull the centre back cord to raise more of the skirt to be able to ride a diamond frame bike – which was man’s bike at the time

There are over 25,000 patents just for pockets in the archives

People and especially women have been bothered by the paucity and problem of pockets for centuries

Here are some of them:

Lena Smith’s 1888 Bustle with secret pocket

Ottlie Wider’s 1904 belt with pocket

Charles Scott’s 1905 secret double safety pocket strapped to her leg

Martha Gowan’s 1903 milliner’s work pocket

Sigmund Krieger’s 1913 shirt cuff with pocket

Cecile Herzberg’s 1963 scarf with pocket

Gill’s 1894 invention is a full- length A- line skirt that converts into what she calls a ‘semi- skirt’.

The technology is concealed under a second layer or flounce at the bottom of the skirt.

When lifted, gathered and tied at the waist, the result is a bubble- like semi- skirt that sits above the knees.

It’s quite radical design.

We could find no real evidence of this invention making its way into widespread use

It is possible that concealment was not Gill’s aim at all. Instead, showcasing such an exciting cutting- edge convertible invention may have been a strategy calculated to attract clients and drive new business.

The Rößler’s identify the timeless problem for women who had to comply with social norms, even while abroad, while also wanting to do a lot of sport and travelling –

And, many women also wanted to travel light for cost reasons and to carry their own bags and not wait around for help.

This invention offered this with multiple adaptable pieces – as kirt that transformed into an overall and a cape with detachable sleeves

The inventors suggested the garment was useful for mountaineering, cycling and tobogganing.

Ryan’s 1900 adjustable skirt for rainy skirt might look like a conventional long A line skirt but it’s in fact an adjustable two-tiered skirt system.

It operated via a series of cords threaded through the waistband.

Raising the cords lifted the underskirt to a desired height and reverses swiftly  back into place due to the slippery material.

It was useful not only for avoiding puddles but also for activities like cycling.

Traphagen’s 1857 invention responded to the problem of hoop skirts being heavy, cumbersome and dangerous –

They had a propensity to flip up, embarrassingly exposing the wearer’s legs and undergarments. Gusts of wind could blow women out to sea. They were quick to catch fire,

Yet – they also very popular as they took up space – a woman in a hoop skirt would not be ignored –  which for women at the time of limited other rights and freedoms was critically important and well worth the other inconveniences and risks

Many inventors experimented with cutting-edge technologies originally earmarked for other uses – To achieve lighter, more flexible results

Traphagen uses rubber tubing that could be inflated with air.

She explains how the skirt was significantly lighter, on and off the body –could be stored more easily– as it compressed down to a manageable size and packed into a suitcase while traveling – and importantly the wearer could adjust the span of her skirt– by inflating or deflating the hoops

For the finale we brought all the models back to the runway for a final show.

Thanks to everyone for brining the stories and inventions to life and for your enthusiasm and support for the POP project.