Analysis

Clothing the “Perfect” Mother?
During and following the (first) UK lockdown in March, there has been much discussion over childcare. Specifically, debates centred around what the ‘staying at home’ policy and the closure of schools meant for both children and those caring for them....
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Dressing Desire
What role do clothing inventions play in shaping who and how people desire? Sexuality is political. Restrictions on people’s sexuality - who and how people desire – affect people’s freedom as particularly queer scholars have argued (Ahmed 2017, Sheller 2014, 2012;...
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A Time-Travellers Pocket: What secrets do 200 years of pockets hold?
Can we map citizens by their pockets? Not in terms of what is IN their pockets (though this is super interesting too) but by the changing shape, position and purpose of pockets. Are there really that many pockets? How many...
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The Politics of Underwear: Chasing the moving nipple
Following my work in the POP project on patented underwear via our regular Skype meetings, my mother called me the other day: “I found an article on bras!” She was full of excitement. The Hungarian article referred to bras as...
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Beaches, Bodies & Bathing Couture: Who gets to show off what & where?
Every year come springtime, lifestyle magazines, TV programs and online features dish out advice on ‘how to get beach body ready’ in anticipation for the summer months spent lounging on the beach, frolicking in the sea or, at the very...
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The Shoplifter’s Clothes: Technologies for a Feminist Practice
Silvia is a PhD candidate aligned with the POP team. In this, her first blog post, she introduces her independent research project and unique approach to the patent archives. Her project runs from 2020-2024. More about Silvia is here. At...
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The ‘evil’ that is the corset
For those of us privileged and lucky enough to be working from home (WFH) in the last couple of months of the pandemic, wearing the possibly most comfortable clothes has been a commonplace practice. Social media is full of images...
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Care, surveillance & the monitoring of childhood
"Naughty, romping girls and boys tear their clothes and make a noise…" - Hoffmann’s (1845) Der Struwwelpeter As a child I was deeply fascinated by the old German book written by Heinrich Hoffmann (1845): Der Struwwelpeter. Although this is a...
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Policing & the Politics of Protection
As hundreds of thousands of protesters around the world have joined the rallying cry of the Black Lives Matter movement since late May, protesters in casual clothing have been regularly met by police in full riot gear. These uniforms usually...
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We have been inventing PPE for centuries. But who gets protected?
The classic image of the French plague doctor with the beak mask has been circulating on social media. The proboscis, filled with herbs and spices, apparently safeguarded the wearer from poisonous air borne particles or miasma. While there’s little evidence...
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