Divided Sports Skirt
by Babette Polich & Otto Beyer, 1896
Inventor
- NAMEBabette Polich and Otto Beyer
- PATENTGB189611822A
- DATEJuly 18, 1896
- LOCATIONPatented in the UK – inventors residing in Leipzig, Germany
- INVENTION"An Improved Skirt or Garment"
- THEMEExpanding
Babette Polich and Otto Beyer identify themselves in their patent from the “Firm of Aug. Polich” in Leipzig, Germany, milliners. More research reveals that Babette was the widow of August Polich who established the August (Aug.) Polich fashion house. It was a successful business, rebuilt and expanded a few times during the nineteenth century. In 1898, the firm installed one of the few “moving staircases” [escalators] in the world and registered two motorcycles, suggesting they were early adopters of new technologies.
There was always a collection of businesses operating from within the store, and from 1890 that included a publishing house run by Otto Beyer. Its speciality was sewing pattern sheets, but it was also known for fashion and handicraft magazines. As far as we know, Polich and Beyer collaborated only on one patent – their convertible skirt/trousers – however, Beyer and his companies went on to successfully patent several inventions for sewing, pattern and knitting devices.
Invention
Like many in the collection we have researched, the invention patented by Polich and Beyer speaks to the challenges facing women wanting to participate in sports and other activities. For these women, the desire for freedom of bodily movement had to be balanced with the desire to minimise (or avoid entirely) the harassment that came from the parts of society that frowned upon women wearing what some considered to be “masculine” attire (as well as engaging in masculine activities). In order to increase ease of movement whilst reducing the risk of harassment, Polich and Beyer propose a garment that is both a skirt and a pair of trousers, with a system that easily allows conversion between the two.
The invention consists of a pair of knickerbockers which are designed to assume the appearance of an ordinary long skirt. The gathering of the knickerbockers that keeps the lower edge drawn in tight to the leg is shown in the patent drawings as being achieved by a cord sewn into the lower hem – an approach we have not yet seen in other patents in the collection. When this gathering is released, the kickerbockers are converted into a divided skirt (or wide-legged trousers). With an apron buttoned to the front, the transformation to what appears to be an ordinary skirt is complete. The patent states that, when not in use, this apron can be folded and stored safely in a pocket. Unlike in Winthrop’s cycling suit, there is no rear apron – instead generous pleats hide the divided nature of the garment from behind.
“The garment consists of two parts formed as trousers which are united on the front side by a connecting part” and “may be used for or as knickerbockers or as a skirt.”
— Babette Polich and Otto Beyer, inventors
More quotes from Polich and Beyer's patent
Speculatively Sewing Polich and Beyer's Invention
Consisting of a divided skirt hidden under an apron, this invention shared many similar features to other sporting garments of the period. As such, we did not need to make any paper mockups and we felt confident enough to go straight into a full-scale calico toile. The reasons that we were interested in reconstructing this design lay hidden in the hems of the knickerbockers.
Polich and Beyer explain: “A garment forming knickerbockers and also adapted to present the appearance of a skirt, such garment having means for gathering or loosening the lower ends of the parts of the knickerbockers.”
The patent drawings show a tape of some kind looped through the hems to create a gathering cuff that draws the loose material close to the leg – critical for safe cycling – and also allows the wearer to pull the trouser legs up to create a voluminous knickerbocker effect. This worked well in practice. It was quick and effective and the excess tape could be tucked into the trouser cuff. It was easy to reverse back into wide-legged long trousers.
Although the inventors don’t mention it, we noted how the cuffs could be affixed at the ankle, and the long trousers become harem pants. Pulled up and gathered under the knee, they become a voluminous pair of bloomers. In this way, the invention shifts from conservative to radical via a simple cuff. It’s a simply yet effective and offers multiple options for the wearer to adapt to different sports/activities.
The speculative sewing process revealed other key features of the patent that we may have overlooked in the text and drawings (often, inventors also do not reveal everything in the patent). The inventors replace the normative side entry point in women’s skirts – the placket – with a double set of buttons on the front of the skirt/trousers. This is a more masculine-style opening, which cleverly doubles as the attachment for the apron.
We also noted how the strap detail at the waist, which is given little detail in the patent by the inventor, could be interpreted in different ways. If it is attached to the front part of the waist band, it would allow the wearer to lower the rear of trousers to “respond to the call of nature” (as it was described in other patents of the time). They would still be modestly covered. Being able to relieve themselves, without the worry of being “leashed to the home”, would have further enabled independent women to enjoy and participate in outdoor activities. It shows how even small simple details could have radical potential.
