1896 Divided Sports Skirt
by Babette Polich and Otto Beyer, Milliners
About the Patent
- NAMEBabette Polich and Otto Beyer
- PATENTGB189611822A
- DATEJuly 18, 1896
- LOCATIONPatented in Great Britain – inventors residing in Leipzig, Germany
- INVENTION"An Improved Skirt or Garment"
- THEMEExpanding [more about our themes]
About the Inventors
Babette Polich and Otto Beyer identify themselves in their patent as milliners [hat makers] from the “Firm of Aug. Polich” in Leipzig, Germany. More research reveals that Babette was the widow of August Polich who established the August (Aug.) Polich fashion house. It was a successful business, rebuilt and expanded a few times during the nineteenth century. In 1898, the firm installed one of the few “moving staircases” [escalators] in the world and registered two motorcycles, suggesting they were early adopters of new technologies.
There was always a collection of businesses operating from within the store, and from 1890 that included a publishing house run by Otto Beyer. Its speciality was sewing pattern sheets, but it was also known for fashion and handicraft magazines. As far as we know, Polich and Beyer collaborated only on one patent – their convertible skirt/trousers – however, Beyer and his companies went on to successfully patent several inventions for sewing, pattern and knitting devices.
About the Invention
PROBLEM
Like many in the collection we have researched, the invention patented by Polich and Beyer speaks to the challenges facing women wanting to participate in sports and other activities. The desire for freedom of bodily movement had to be balanced with the desire to minimise (or avoid entirely) the harassment that came from the parts of society that frowned upon women wearing what some considered to be “masculine” attire (as well as engaging in masculine activities). To increase ease of movement and reduce the risk of harassment, Polich and Beyer propose a garment that is both a skirt and a pair of trousers, with a system that easily allows conversion between the two.
SOLUTION
The invention consists of a pair of knickerbockers which are designed to assume the appearance of an ordinary long skirt. Gathered cuffs keeps the lower edge drawn in tight to the leg. It is achieved by a cord sewn into the lower hem – an approach we have not yet seen in other patents in the collection. When this gathering is released, the kickerbockers are converted into a divided skirt (or wide-legged trousers). With an apron buttoned to the front, the transformation to what appears to be an ordinary skirt is complete. The patent states that, when not in use, this apron can be folded and stored safely in a pocket. Unlike in Winthrop’s cycling suit, there is no rear apron – instead generous pleats hide the divided nature of the garment from behind.
Open Access Patent Document
See the complete British patent.
“The garment consists of two parts formed as trousers which are united on the front side by a connecting part” and “may be used for or as knickerbockers or as a skirt.”
— Babette Polich and Otto Beyer, inventors
More Quotes from Polich and Beyer’s Patent
Speculatively Sewing Polich and Beyer’s Invention
Learn more about speculative sewing here
Polich and Beyer’s invention is a divided skirt hidden under an apron. Because it shares many similar features to other sporting garments of the period, we did not need to make any paper mockups and felt confident enough to go straight into a full-scale calico toile. The reasons that we were interested in reconstructing this design lay hidden in the hems of the knickerbockers.
The inventors explain: “A garment forming knickerbockers and also adapted to present the appearance of a skirt, such garment having means for gathering or loosening the lower ends of the parts of the knickerbockers.”
The patent drawings show a tape of some kind looped through the hems to create a gathering cuff that draws the loose material close to the leg – critical for safe cycling. This also allows the wearer to pull the trouser legs up to the knees to create a voluminous knickerbocker effect. This worked well in practice. The excess tape could be tucked into the cuff and it was easy to reverse back into wide-legged long trousers. Simple yet effective, this invention offers multiple options for the wearer to adapt to different sports and activities.
Our speculative sewing process revealed other features of the patent that we may have overlooked in the text and drawings (often, inventors also do not reveal everything in the patent). The inventors replace the normative side entry point in women’s skirts – the placket – with a double set of buttons on the front of the skirt/knickerbockers. This is a more masculine-style opening, which cleverly doubles as the attachment for the apron.
We also noted how the strap detail at the waist, which is given little detail in the patent by the inventor, could be interpreted in different ways. If it is attached to the front part of the waist band, it would allow the wearer to lower the rear of trousers to “respond to the call of nature” (as it was described in other patents of the time). They would still be modestly covered. Being able to relieve themselves, without the worry of being “leashed to the home”, would have further enabled independent women to enjoy and participate in outdoor activities. It shows how even small simple details could have radical potential.
You can read our open access journal article about speculative sewing here.
More Research Relating to Polich and Beyer’s Invention
Below is a selection of research activities relating to Polich and Beyer’s invention and activewear more generally. Click through to learn more.
The Speculative Sewing Inventory is part of the Politics Of Patents project, which has received funding from the European Research Council (ERC) under the European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme. Grant No: 819458. Politics Of Patents is hosted by Goldsmiths College, University of London.
