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PEOPLEKatFebruary 20, 2020July 28, 2022

PEOPLE

POP PEOPLE

Dr Roselind Sinclair

POP Collaborator

POP Collaborator

Dr Julien McHardy

POP Collaborator

Screen Shot 2020-11-11 at 15.20.26

ADVISORY BOARD MEMBERS

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Artist, digital ethnographer and Director of the Design and Creative Practice ECP Platform

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Senior lecturer, Department of Design Faculty of Arts

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Artist and senior lecturer, School of Arts and Communication

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Poet, writer, ethnographer of futures, and interdisciplinary senior lecturer in energy and society in the School of Geosciences

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Lecturer in queer history and cultural historian of sexualities and the queer past focusing on twentieth-century Britain

PAST POP TEAM

Fixings and fastenings. Inventors are sometimes ve

Fixings and fastenings. Inventors are sometimes very specific about the technologies to use to join parts of their clothes together. Other times they’re all a bit - “use whatever is best”. Because we’re making a lot of convertible and modular inventions, they tend to have an impressive range of fastenings, on show and cleverly concealed. We’re using a lot! For eg: buttons, snaps, hooks and eyes, eyelets, adjusters, cords, loops, and there are even few jaunty tassels.

ID: 1. a range of colourful hand covered material buttons on a table.
2. 3 bright blue tassels on a table next to a pair of scissors

#inventions #fastenings #finishings #sewing #speculativesewing #research

Some of the modular/ convertible pieces in the 189

Some of the modular/ convertible pieces in the 1890-1940s women’s #sportswear collection we are making are pretty unique. This 1900s double-sided cape with its scalloped edging is one of our favourites right now. It’s in reflective tweed on one side (have to use your imagination for that, sorry) and green on the other to highlight the invention and fit with our research colour coding of the time period.

ID: Julia wears a black dress with short shaped cape over her shoulders. It’s in grey tweed on one side and hot green on the other

#research #sportswear #invention #speculativesewing #modular #convertible #patent

We’ve been trying out a century old bathing & gy

We’ve been trying out a century old bathing & gym suit by Marietta Lindeberg. Her patent from 1919 emphasises the freedom of movement of the all-in-one design (check out her drawing illustrating the expansive potential of the undercarriage detail). The front and back box pleat further provides generous room while also concealing the legs. She explained it had “the modesty of a skirt effect with the freedom and comfort of a bloomer”.

ID:
1. Line drawing from the patent of three versions of the invention: a bloomer, the full all-in-one and the underside view of a person possibly doing the splits!
2. Image of Kat not doing the splits but rather standing on a chair in a calico toile of the invention lifting one knee up

#swimsuit #gymsuit #sportswear #women #invention #inventor #speculativesewing #research

It’s a #cutting extravaganza in the #POPLab. Woo

It’s a #cutting extravaganza in the #POPLab. Wool suitings, tweeds, cotton drills, and neon rayons to name a few!

Things are progressing nicely in our #SpeculativeSewing phase of the research.

Image Description:
1. A colourful art studio with Kat standing over a table cutting neon yellow fabric. Ellen stands over an iron with neon pink fabric.

2. Julia stands over a desk cutting fabric shapes. A colourful pinboard in the background.

No sporting wardrobe is complete without a pair of

No sporting wardrobe is complete without a pair of #voluminous #bloomers. POP are in the process of making a range of turn of last century women’s sporting and active inventions. For many, these kind of full bloomers were considered a compromise between skirts and more radical bifurcated garments. They still gave the appearance of the former with the freedom and flexibility of the latter. Also, see the patent pic ➡️ they provided plenty of space for snacks!

ID: 1. Kat wears a pair of large pin-striped grey bloomers that look like a combined skirt/trouser to her knees. The split images show front and back of garment
2. A black and white line drawing of the garment, showing the front, back and how expansive they were.

#bloomers #invention #sewing #research #speculativesewing #sportswear #activewear #activewomen

Get ready to get #reflective! We are incorporating

Get ready to get #reflective! We are incorporating @dashingtweeds stunning reflective #cloth in our latest project. It’s been a real pleasure to work with and looks pretty striking when lit up…

At POP we are using various methods of #ColourCoding in the #reconstruction process to group different elements of our research. The #HighVis pops help to identify the themes of our #Patent #Research

Image Description: Kat stands up holding a wide length of grey and silver reflective high-vis striped fabric.

There has been lots of #fittings going on in the #

There has been lots of #fittings going on in the #POPLab recently. We are working on a collection of #ActiveWear based on #clothing #patents from the last 150 years.

Looking at #SportsWear from a historic angle and comparing it to the gendered garments that are on the market today has been fascinating. Stay tuned for more on this very exciting #collaboration.

#PoliticsOfPatents #Garments #Toiles #Prototypes #Muslins #Calico

Image Description:
1. Kat standing on a wooden bench smiling wearing a black t-shirt and calico wide legged trousers. Ellen sits below looking at the fabric. A colourful art studio in the background.
2. Julia pins a calico dress on to Kat who is standing up, wearing a blue puffy blouse.

New article out in the journal Social Studies of S

New article out in the journal Social Studies of Science about POP’s practice research approach. Called “Speculative Sewing: Researching, reconstructing and re-imagining wearable technoscience”. It combines feminist speculation with STS reconstruction practices - and involves stitching data, theory and fabric into inventions described in patents and analysing them as 3D arguments. Open access and link above

ID: screenshot of front page of a journal article with article title and authors name

#sewing #research #speculativesewing #journalarticle #STS

It’s been a heatwave and making wave in the POPl

It’s been a heatwave and making wave in the POPlab this week! The team have been busy reconstructing some of the key patents from the Active research theme, we are really excited to share them with you all soon!

#ActiveWear #HistoricSportsWear #PoliticsOfPatents #GarmentConstruction #Neon #Zips #SewingMachine

Image Description:
1. Two cups with pink neon paint and a paintbrush, two zips and fabric being painted on a wooden table.
2. A grey sewing machine with neon green thread winding on a wooden table with sewing tools.
3. Kat wearing a grey, black and pink trouser/skirt opening the side zip.

A quick glimpse of our growing toile collection. (

A quick glimpse of our growing toile collection. (Toiles are practice pieces made out of cheaper material, usually calico). At POP, we think of toiles as time-travelling three-dimensional arguments that bring together theory, methods and data and give us a chance to interview inventors about their inventions. We’re planning events where we invite lots of people into the toiles and our research and we’re also preparing a digital Speculative Sewing Archive of all of these incredible designs.

ID: a photo of an industrial clothes rack filled with calico clothing on hangars. A video slowly pans across the garments

#speculativesewing #patents #inventions #inventor #research #sewing #toile

POP patent pattern packs! The amazing team in the

Lots talk, tea and translation work happening late

Lots talk, tea and translation work happening lately. Patents into patterns. Words into drawings.

ID:
1. Two people stand over a desk with a paper pattern marked out in pen
2. A close up of a pages of text and drawings (a patent) with lots of annotations and highlighting
3. Close up of piles of pattern pieces
4. Table with different tools of the trade - scissors, pens, measuring tape, paper, tea, glasses, biscuits, phone

#sewing #inventions #research #speculativesewing #pattern #patent #translation

POP was visited by Jens Bemme, an absolute wizard

POP was visited by Jens Bemme, an absolute wizard on all things Wiki (wikisource, wikicommons , wikidata etc). We were inspired, learned a lot and plan to do even more open access experiments with our dataset of women inventors/inventions

ID: two smiling people stand in front of a colourful board pinned with lots of paper.

#openaccess #inventions #womeninventors #POPLab

Today’s #PatentOfTheWeek is by #LenaSmith from 1

Today’s #PatentOfTheWeek is by #LenaSmith from 1888 in New York, USA. It’s a #SecretBustle with a “sack” or “pocket” inside to “stow away many things inconvenient to carry in the hands, such as a gum rain-mantel.”

Alice has done a fantastic job reconstructing this #invention, going through #iterative #prototypes made out of Chinese watercolour paper and pattern card.

This #patent is part of the wider POP #ResearchTheme of the #SecretCitizen… A collection of secret pockets placed all over the wearer in different sizes, forms and locations.

Please comment below what you might like to store in this bustle pocket…….

#PoliticsOfPatents #StsReconstructions #PaperPrototype

Image Description:
1. A black line drawing on a white background of a striped bustle from the front and side view.
2. A table with documents, pencil, ruler and paper models.
3. A wooden table with a paper circular bustle and strap with pins.
4. Alice standing behind a mannequin in office, putting her hand into the pocket of the bustle on the mannequin.
5. A close up of Alice’s hand in the see-through bustle pocket.
6. The paper and card bustle hanging on a grey background with other paper models.

We have had the pleasure of Julia joining the POP

We have had the pleasure of Julia joining the POP team this week!

She will be supporting the research by analysing patents, pattern cutting, draping, toile development, and constructing some of the finished costumes!

More details to come of this cloak toile that Beatrice Bankart patented in 1910….

Image Description:
1. Julia draping a calico fabric cape onto a mannequin.

2. Two documents on a wooden table. One is black and white patent illustrations, the other is a pencil sketch of pattern pieces.

3. A calico short cape toile on a mannequin.

4. Julia cuts out a piece of calico with a paper shape on top.

#PoliticsOfPatents #Atelier #Toile #PatternCutter #Clothing #Costume #Reconstruction #Patent #Feminism

Politics Of Patents Follow

Retweet on Twitter Politics Of Patents Retweeted

So great to see a @POPinvention article out in #SocialStudiesofScience. It's about our practice of "Speculative Sewing" - we stitch data, theory & methods into inventions described in patents & analyse them as 3D arguments. Open access here: https://tinyurl.com/4jfpadrr @SociologyGold

Reply on Twitter 1559536840570507264 Retweet on Twitter 1559536840570507264 8 Like on Twitter 1559536840570507264 33 Twitter 1559536840570507264

POP pattern packs! The amazing team in the POPlab are drafting sewing patterns from historic patents as we research & reconstruct. They’re growing in numbers! We’ll plan make them OA like the #BikesandBloomers patterns that have been downloaded 35,000 times so far @SociologyGold

Reply on Twitter 1557672589585162241 Retweet on Twitter 1557672589585162241 4 Like on Twitter 1557672589585162241 12 Twitter 1557672589585162241

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